It is a dependable choice. Its fruit is large and conical to round with an attractive glossy red color. The strawberries are not just red on the outside, however. They are also bright red on the inside as well. It is one of the most reliable producers in the fall, and it even performs well in hot, dry climates.
It produces fewer runners than the June-bearers. A drawback of Seascape plants is that it is patented. This means that it is technically illegal to propagate this variety. Click here to buy Seascape strawberry plants. Tristar is a day-neutral strawberry variety that is excellent for both fresh eating and freezing.
The berries are firm, red, very sweet, and solid with no hollow cores. They are conical in shape but only medium-sized. A big advantage is their production pattern. They begin producing with a bang early, will produce all summer long as long as conditions are tolerable, and will increase production again in the late summer to fall as they produce maximally at that time. Runners from Tristar plants will flower and fruit even before rooting. They are an excellent choice for hanging baskets.
Click here to buy Tristar strawberry plants. Sparkle strawberries are a classic favorite and have been a popular strawberry variety for over 60 years. It is widely considered the best strawberry variety for making jam. Sparkle strawberries are medium-sized and ripen late. Planting Sparkle with other earlier varieties extends the fresh fruit season.
Strawberries from Sparkle plants are deep red and have excellent flavor. Click here to buy Sparkle strawberry plants.
Surecrop strawberries are aptly named. They are the surest bet for producing a good yield compared to all other June-bearers. The fruit is medium to large with good firmness that holds up to shipping. It is deeply red throughout, has yellow seeds, and produces irregularly-shaped berries initially which are followed by more uniform, short and round, conical strawberries. They are ideal for canning and are sweet with a bit of tartness. As the name indicates, this variety will do well virtually anywhere, even poor or dry soils.
Click here to buy Surecrop strawberry plants. Fort Laramie strawberry plants are everbearers. They produce large to very fruits that are scarlet on the outside and dark pink to scarlet on the inside. This variety will produce blooms, berries, and runners simultaneously and is very cold hardy. Its strawberries have an exceptional aroma and a firm, honey-sweet flesh that makes them a great choice for fresh eating or processing.
Fort Laramie is also a very good choice for growing hydroponic strawberries. Click here to buy Fort Laramie strawberry plants. All of the varieties listed here are tried and true producers and hardy little plants to boot.
They have an excellent track record of satisfied customers. Otherwise, they would not continue to be sold by nurseries across the U. Happy gardeners are happy customers. Happy customers make happy businesses. These strawberries make everyone happy. If you want to purchase other cultivars from a nursery you trust, you can do so on the Strawberry Plants for Sale page. Or, if you want to browse or compare prices on specific strawberry varieties, see the Buy Strawberry Plants page.
Happy hunting! Dear Strawberry, I plan to establish a strawberry farm in the Saudi Arabian kingdom in the city of Riyadh, due to the lack of water availability and high air temperature, which may reach 50 degrees Celsius in the summer during the day, so I thought about the PFAL system plant factory with artificial light , and my question is which variety that is grown in this closed system and how much each plant yield per year?
A superb evergreen bearing delicate, waxy, bell-shaped flowers in the depths of winter, with lush green foliage for year-round interest. Home How to Grow plants The best strawberries to grow.
Subscribe now. Buy now for spring flowers. Double up for 1P more. Evergreen climbing hydrangea. Buy now for year-round interest. Offer Ends: Tuesday, 30 November, Buy now for instant colour. Strawberries with a mounding habit produce growth both vertically and horizontally, giving the plants a rounded appearance.
Those with a prostrate habit , also referred to as spreading or creeping, tend to produce growth more horizontally, spreading across the ground. Prostrate varieties are great for raised beds and larger planting spaces, whereas mounding varieties are well-suited to containers and hanging planters.
Most types have a certain number of required chill hours , while a few do not. This tally includes hours before and after harvest, when plants are dormant. Most strawberry plants require chill hours for the best fruit production. Most types tend to be more productive after their first year of growth, and growers remove blossoms during the first year. Strawberries are perennial plants, and most remain productive with good yields for three to four years. Many growers propagate plants from runners while others start new plants every couple of seasons.
Propagating at home is not permitted for some patented varieties. Though some strawberry plants are monoecious, meaning they have both male and female parts on each blossom , self-pollination is sometimes not enough to achieve high yields.
Strawberries are typically self-fertile, with varying levels of success depending on the cultivar and growing conditions, and they are pollinated by wind and insects as well.
Everbearing varieties produce three crops, during spring, summer, and fall. During the heat of the summer, most of these tend to produce less fruit than they do during the other two harvest periods. And they generally produce fewer runners than other types as well.
Many growers will remove blossoms from their first-year everbearing plants until around June 1st, and then allow later blossoms to develop into fruit for two harvests in the first year. June-bearing types produce one large crop over the course of about a month during the spring, and these may be further broken down into early, mid-season, and late varieties.
This relates to bloom time, and the production of fruit to follow. Remove all of the flowers from June-bearing strawberry cultivars during the first year of growth, so they can devote their energy to developing strong roots and runners.
Finally, day-neutral cultivars are kind of like indeterminate tomatoes. Like everbearing types, these produce few runners, and flowers should be removed from first-year plants until the beginning of June. After that, you can allow your baby plants to develop fruit through the summer and into the fall. This gives them enough time to become established before the cold winter weather sets in. Growers in warm Zones 7 and up typically plant around Labor Day for harvests beginning the following spring.
Conical to wedge-shaped large fruits ripen early on this cold-tolerant June-bearing variety, which thrives in Zones The berries have a firm texture and are known for holding up well to freezer storage after harvest. Be sure to protect your crops in the case of a late freeze.
Vigorous growers with a prostrate habit, a mature height of 12 inches, and a spread of inches, these plants are moderately resistant to powdery mildew and red stele fungal disease. But they are susceptible to verticillium wilt and angular leaf spot.
Packages of 25 bare root plants are available from Burpee. Resistant to verticillium wilt, Phytophthora crown rot , and anthracnose crown rot, this type is known for producing high yields of one to three pints of fruit per plant. Fragrant white flowers are attractive to pollinators. With a mounded growth habit, height of 12 inches, and spread of inches at maturity, chill hours are required for good yields. With a moderate to fast growth rate, expect 90 days to harvest.
A firm texture means your harvest will hold up well to freezer storage. This midseason June-bearing variety is highly resistant to red stele, and moderately resistant to verticillium wilt.
It can even be planted in clay or sandy soils. Plants are suited to Zones , where they will grow to a height of about 10 inches with a spread of 18 inches.
Bare root plants in packages of 25 are available from Bonnie Plants via Home Depot. It produces white flowers and teeny-tiny berries known for their delicious and distinct flavor and texture.
High yielding, runnerless, everbearing plants are happiest with some room to spread out, at least 18 inches between plants, and this type is also suited to growing as a ground cover. Planted in full sun to partial shade in Zones , you can expect this type to reach a height of inches.
Plants are available from Burpee. Looking for something a little different? How about strawberries that ripen to a pale yellow color? This everbearing F. It has a prostrate growth habit, height of inches at maturity, and a spread of inches. Not only does this F. Some say these taste like tropical fruit, others note hints of grape or rose. These vigorous everbearing plants produce white flowers, and they do best in full sun in Zones They have a prostrate growth habit, with a height of inches at maturity and a spread of inches.
All three types of alpine strawberries described above are also available as live plants in a convenient 3-pack. Cavendish June-bearing Excellent to very good Ripens over a long season. Produces large berries with very good flavor. Prolific runners. Ogallala Ever-bearing Excellent to very good Vigorous plants produce soft, deep red, rich-flavored berries. Drought tolerant.
Seascape Day neutral Very good to poor Productive from early summer through fall. Bright red berries inside and out. Disease resistant. Great for containers and garden beds. Albion Day neutral Fair to poor Medium, firm berries have excellent flavor. Produces consistently from June until frost. Great for containers or in the garden. Grows well in part shade. Does not produce runners, so plants remain small.
Planting and caring for young plants. Buying plants. Choosing a site, plant spacing and depth Site selection By choosing the right site to grow strawberries, you can lower disease and insect pest pressure. Choose a site located away from trees and buildings that cast shade for more than a few hours each day. Trees will compete for water and nutrients as well as cast shade, so the strawberry bed should lay beyond the root zone of large trees. The root zone is roughly the same size as the canopy of a tree.
Strawberries should be planted in well-drained soil that does not accumulate standing water following a heavy rainstorm. Planting on higher ground minimizes frost damage, while increasing air circulation around the strawberry plants. Good air circulation allows the berries to dry out faster, reducing the incidence of some diseases. Plant spacing If planting a large number of strawberries plant in rows. There are many methods of row planting that work well for strawberries, but by far the most common method is the matted row system: Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart Space rows 3 to 4 feet apart June-bearing plants especially will send out many runners throughout the season and fill in the space between plants, so it's important to go with the recommended spacing, otherwise your plants will quickly become overcrowded.
Strawberries in the landscape. Watering After planting, firm the soil around the plant and water thoroughly. Strawberries perform best when they are given the equivalent of 1 inch of rainwater per week. Use a rain gauge to monitor rainfall and water with a soaker hose or drip system if needed. One good soaking each week should be enough in most soil types.
Always water early in the day so that leaves have a chance to dry before nightfall. This will help prevent leaf diseases. How to keep strawberries healthy and productive. Pinching flowers and training runners Spring of planting year After planting, pinch off any flower buds that appear for the first few weeks. Fertilizing and weeding Fertilizing If June-bearing plants do not produce many runners by mid-July this usually means the plants need more nitrogen.
You can apply compost or an organic fertilizer, such as blood meal, around the plants to increase nitrogen for plant growth. Before plants begin to grow in the spring of the second year, you may need to add more compost or organic nitrogen to encourage plant growth and fruit development.
Weeding Because strawberries are poor competitors, keep all weeds out of the strawberry bed. Hand-weeding is recommended for home gardeners.
Careful cultivation with a hoe is effective for managing weeds in strawberry plantings, but be careful not to dig too deeply, as you could damage the plant's shallow root system. Harvesting and protecting plants in winter Harvest and storage.
Renovation Renovation helps control diseases and insect pests by disrupting their life cycles. Regardless of the size and shape of your strawberry patch it is best to mow or cut the foliage back before August 1.
A new canopy will develop by mid-August. First, mow plants and remove clippings. Thin rows If plants are grown in rows, renovation is a good time to thin widening rows back to their original width.
Managing pests and disorders Gardeners need to be able to identify pests and the damage that they cause in order to choose the best way to manage them. Pest management schedule for strawberries What to do When to do it Protect strawberry flower buds from spring frosts. Do not remove straw mulch used for winter protection until there is no longer a threat of frost, around when lilac buds begin to open.
Early spring Leave mulch in the alleyways. To reduce spread of diseases from soil to fruit and leaves, add straw mulch around plants and in alleyways if remaining winter straw mulch is less than 2 inches deep. Early spring If gray mold was a problem the previous year, completely remove all straw mulch from the bed and replace with new straw. Early spring Use mulch to recover flowers if a frost is predicted.
Early spring Do not apply nitrogen in spring. It can produce too much young leaf tissue susceptible to leaf-disease fungi. Early spring Look for clipped buds that could mean strawberry bud weevil activity. Before strawberry flowers bloom Look for Tarnished plant bug adults when flower buds are green or white. Before strawberry flowers bloom Set out traps for spotted wing Drosophila. Strawberry flowers are in full bloom Inspect for slugs.
Apply baits if damage is detected. Strawberries are ripe Harvest fruit as it ripens to help protect against sap beetles and spotted wing Drosophila; remove and dispose of overripe fruit.
Strawberries are ripe Take care not to wound or bruise berries during harvest. Strawberries are ripe Remove berries infected with fruit rot to prevent spread of disease to ripening fruit. Do not place healthy fruit and diseased fruit into the same container. Strawberries are ripe Renovate in the two weeks following harvest. After harvest Rake up and remove all leaf debris from the bed after renovation. After harvest Apply nitrogen fertilizers.
After harvest Apply straw that is free of weed seeds two to three inches deep over the plants after they have been subjected to several sharp freezes in the low 30s or high 20s. Watering When watering plants, avoid getting the leaf surfaces wet by using a drip system or a soaker hose. If a sprinkler system is used, water plants in the mornings on a sunny day to allow leaf surfaces to dry quickly, to reduce fungal diseases.
Site rotation Land that has been planted in strawberries for 4 years or more can build up a population of root-rotting diseases. If possible, move strawberry plants to different areas of the garden every 3 to 4 years. Winter injury Straw mulch reduces winter injury and plants that have less winter injury have reduced disease. Straw mulch is important in the spring and summer to reduce fruit and flower diseases by covering the soil and reducing spore movement carried by raindrop splash.
Insects and wildlife There are many different insect pests of strawberries. Most insect damage can be reduced by following the best practices mentioned above and: Remove leaf litter to reduce the number of insect overwintering sites. Remove weeds and keep lawns mowed as they can provide habitat for adults to feed and overwinter.
Renovate the patch to remove potential habitat and reduce insect numbers. Frequently harvest crops to ensure ripe fruits are not in gardens for too long. Remove and destroy any old fruit that remains on stems or that has fallen to the ground. The tarnished plant bug feeds on developing flowers, causing deformed berries. The strawberry clipper clips off flower buds in spring, thus reducing harvest.
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